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Back in Paris! Edouard left us in the apartment while we freshened up. For over an hour, we had the apartment all to ourselves. We definitely had a blast while taking some photos inside and outside in the balcony. Edouard had a haircut and he also bought lunch in a nearby Carrefour Super Marche (supermarket) -- baguette, pasta, some sort of pizza and cheese. We told him that we would go to the Champs Elysees and at the Eiffel Tower. He took out a map of Paris and gave us instruction on how to ride the Metro. He was so worried but we told him that we would be alright, and that he should take a rest, and we agreed to meet him for dinner.  Juliette balconies are cute. This one's at the Macnab's apartment.  The apartment's receiving cum office room We took the Metro and I couldn't help but notice the little structures over and around the entrances, mostly found over stairwells. We learned that those are called edibles. We managed to brave Paris' amazing metro system. We had a minor trouble, which was more funny, than problematic. When we were inside the train, it was quite obvious that it was "against the law" to smile or show any sign that we were happy. And yet there we were right in the middle of it, "lawbreakers" constantly smiling and talking about what we had seen for the past 2 days. We found the Paris Metro to be fun. It was new and different to us and it was part of the Parisian culture that we grew to appreciate. Was the Paris Metro intimidating and scary? Yes, a little bit. But it was also an amazing part of our Paris experience.
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After some photo ops, Edouard took us to his apartment at the Avenue Daniel Lesueur in the same arrondissement (administrative district). As we drove along the Avenue des Invalides, I noticed that there aren't so many houses in central Paris -- just streets and streets of stacked apartments, each generally no higher than five floors. From the outside, the apartments are mysterious and beautiful -- most have shutter doors. Nearly synonymous with Parisian apartments are the Juliette balconies that are attached to them. They are just very lovely to look at. Just big enough to stand on, the Juliette balcony is more of an aesthetic addition to an apartment. The intricate designs of the balconies add charm and beauty to the city. The Juliette Balconies of Paris Juliette balconies along Daniel Leseuer When we entered the Macnab Paris' apartment, a small glass elevator just big enough for one person and a piece of luggage greeted us.  The elevator in the Macnab apartment Edouard was so eager to show us around his hometown, so after a short rest, we left the car and took the Metro from Duroc to the Notre Dame station. And the "walkathon" started the moment we stepped out of the Metro. Here in Manila, we have become car dependent -- when we get to work, get groceries, go to the banks, or drive thru fast food. That's not the case in Paris. Be prepared to walk, burn calories, and enjoy it. Regardless of what part of Paris you're in, the sidewalks are filled with fast walkers and no slow traffic lanes. I remember thinking to myself - "We're walking a lot faster than we would back home, yet we were being passed on both sides". Even using the Metro is a stringent workout in itself mainly because of the labyrinth-like hallways and concrete stairways. Need to drop a few pounds? Go to Paris! The "never ending" walkathon in the streets of Paris  It was the 850th year of the Notre Dame's existence and huge groups of tourists were crowding in the square in front of the cathedral. Temporary bleachers were built in the Notre Dame plaza facing the cathedral. What a sight! Notre Dame from the front is actually smaller than I was expecting but the exterior seems to shine with symbolic history and religion. I felt the true magnificence of the building upon entering. The stained glass windows reached heavenward and created an atmosphere of reverence. We were seated near the altar, the Holy Mass was rendered in French, proof that religion like music, transcends all languages. We received the Holy Communion and the feeling was surreal. Before the Mass ended, the newly restored and refurbished great organ played, and for 5 minutes, I thought I needed some serious ear protection. Simply majestic! The "gang" at the Duroc station enroute to Notre Dame Cathedrale Notre Dame de Paris and Eglise San Sulpice  In front of the Notre Dame after attending the Holy Mass After hearing Mass, we crossed the busy streets of Place Saint Michel, the main street of the Quarter Latin (Latin Quarters). The walk up to St. Michel is interesting in its own right. In the middle of the intersection is the Fontaine Saint Michel (Fountain of Saint Michael). It is lined with fast food joints, bookshops, and chain stores. It was one wonderful place to explore. We entered one of the alleys and had a late lunch in one of the restaurants. It wasn't the best meal but the experience was priceless -- we were having lunch with Edouard!!!  Place San Michel (Boulevard Saint Michael) at the Latin Quarters  First meal in Paris….and in Europe!! Very un-French -- look what we're eating -- pizzas! On the way back to the apartment, Edouard encouraged us to walk from where we were. According to him, it's just a few blocks away and just a short walk, about 20 minutes. We went through streets lined with cafes, shops, and areas that I couldn't help but imagine I was right in the middle of a scene from the movie "Les Miserables". After a few more minutes, we were in a square with tremendous fountain. Edouard pointed us the building in front of the fountain and we thought it was the city hall or something. We laughed hard when we learned that it is a church. I later learned that it is the Eglise Saint-Sulpice (Church of St. Sulpice). We were amazed by the architecture of the fountain but the Saint Sulpice church stood tall and mighty overlooking the square. This, they say, is one of the largest churches in Paris, second only to Notre Dame. The noticeable part of the structure is its two mismatched towers that greeted us as we headed to the front door. In we went. As it turns out, Saint-Sulpice is right up there with the mighty Notre Dame in my book. The interior was filled with stunning sculpture and amazing frescos, high gothic ceilings, and arrays of incredible arts. We were so glad Edouard took us to Saint-Sulpice. We could have admired the interior of the church all afternoon but we had to continue walking.  The interiors of Eglise Saint-Sulpice -- high Gothic ceilings and the main altar is almost as large as the Notre Dame  The facade of Saint-Sulpice. Who would think that this is a church? This church was heavily featured in the movie "The Da Vinci Code"  One of the many religious statues inside Saint-Sulpice  I wasn't sure if my companions noticed it, but Edouard and I were looking at the mismatched towers of the church. I looked at the clock in my cellphone and I realized that we had been walking for almost an hour and Edouard said 20 minutes. Liweng, VG, and I were laughing because our feet were aching but Edouard and Knoll were literally a few meters ahead of us. Now I know the reason why Mireille Guiliano famously declared "French Women Don't Get Fat". I concur. La Tuilerie and Dinner Under the Stars (sort of)In the afternoon, we travelled from Paris to La Tuilerie, the Macnab family estate, to meet the rest of the family. All of us were tired from the long trip but my eyes were wide open as we drove through the freeway -- passed the famous Loire River, passed quaint villages that are only 12 to 15 minutes drive apart. Each of the villages has its own boulangerie (bakery), an epicure (grocery), a boucherie (butcher shop), a charcuterie (a deli shop), a place-du-village (village square), an eglise (church), a pharmacie (drugstore) and coffee shops.  Pit stop at one of the Autogrill stores in the freeway - enroute to La Tuilerie  One of the many vineyards in the Loire Valley  You know you're in the Loire region when you see this bridge  One of the quaint villages in the Loire region After 2 hours of travel, we arrived at La Tuilerie where we were welcomed by Edouard's Maman et Papa (Mom and Dad), his lovely wife Lawrence, his younger brother Bruce and his equally beautiful wife, Caro -- they all greeted us with a warm faire-la-bise (French cheek kissing). And then the kids came…all very excited to welcome us. We were out for words when we saw how vast the property is -- a man made lake, sprawling grounds, a wine cellar, a main house which serves as the family's vacation home, and a smaller, cozy, mason-de-ferme (farm house) where we stayed. Papou (Edouard's Dad) invited us to have a late snack and offered us "coffee, Coke, orange juice or WiFi?". We all went for WiFi!! The setting was like a scene from a classic French movie -- long white table, green grass, Quinga (the family's dog) playing with the kids, and a castle not far away from where we were. Papou, Edouard, and Lawrence preparing the table for dinner -- behind is the family's vacation house in La Tuilerie.   The very charming Papou offering us "coffee, Coke, orange juice, or WiFi?" Very good host.  From this angle, you can see how vast the property is.  Inside the maison-dela-ferme where we stayed and slept. I love this kind of houses -- very rustic, very relaxed, and very French.  The facade of the farm house. Remember the castle not far from the family's vacation house? THAT castle happens to be the house of Edouard's maternal grandmother. We took a leisurely stroll and headed for the castle. We were amazed that we were actually seeing a castle but Edouard tried to downplay it. According to him, a castle and a chateau are the same. We agree, BUT this chateau happens to be much bigger than the others that we have seen.  On our way to Grandma's castle. In the background are the horses' stables they called "Domaine dela Vallee".  We were introduced to his grandmother and we immediately fell in love with "Grandma". She toured us inside her abode and we were enthralled by her wonderful stories. Never mind if she speaks French -- we simply love her. The facade of Grandma's castle  Grandma enthralled us with her stories about life in La Tuilerie, her beautiful family, and of course, the house.  At the castle's formal dining area where Edouard and Lawrence had their engagement dinner. Beside the castle were the stables for the horses. We later learned that they offer horse-riding lessons and the place is called "Domaine de la Vallee" (Field of the Valley).   It was almost 8pm and dinner was ready. Edouard's best friend Ben, who travelled from Paris to La Tuilerie, was there too. For dinner, we had grilled merguez (French spicy sausage), arugula salad, baguette, and rice. For dessert, we had tapenade (a bread spread consisting of chopped olives, capers, anchovies, and olive oil), and fromages (cheeses), and of course, French wine. What a wonderful dinner under the stars -- only this time, the stars were still nowhere in sight and the sun was just starting to set.
We woke up early and the surrounding was very quiet -- it was a cold morning. We went out and what a beautiful scenery it was -- there was smoke coming from the lake, the grass was wet because of the morning dew. We took a morning stroll around the property (La Tuilerie), laughing and talking quietly as we passed the main house because we didn't want to wake up the family.  Morning at La Tuilerie -- morning dew. It was Summer in France and yet it felt like Baguio.  The man-made lake and the family's horses can be seen grazing in the background When we returned, Bruce and Edouard were already outside. Papou was already busy preparing the breakfast. We were all excited because Mamou would take us to Nevers. And yes, at 65 years old, she still drives her own car. We ere supposed to go to Lourdes but when we learned that it is an 8-hour trip by train from Paris, we immediately nixed the idea.  Breakfast at La Tuilerie -- baguette, jams, Beurre-de-I'signy (French butter), cubed cane sucre, orange juice -- mismatched flatwares. Is there anything else more French than this table spread? On our way to Nevers, the sceneries were very picturesque --- wheat fields, endless vineyards, beautiful chateaus, and hamlets (small villages) scattered like peppercorns on the multi-colored landscape.  Endless vineyards on our way to Nevers  One of the tiny villages in the Sancerre region Espace Bernadette and Saint Bernadette SubirousAfter more than an hour, we reached Nevers, a town famous for nougats and potteries. We came here mainly for one thing, to see the uncorrupted body of St. Bernadette Subirous, the Visionary of Our Lady of Lourdes at Espace Bernadette. Inside the compound stands a replica of the Grotto of Massabielle, where Bernadette saw the 18 apparitions of Mother Mary. We lighted some candles and wrote our petitions and prayers.  Mamou with Knoll, Liweng, and VG near the entrance of Espace.  In the open area of Espace, chapel in the right, dormitories in the back.  The replica of the Grotto of Massabielle I could feel the serenity in the place the moment I set my foot in Espace. Mamou took us inside the chapel. The first thing I noticed was the altar which is simply plain with a symbol of Christianity on the wall, the Crucified Jesus Christ. On the left side of the altar, there she rests, the incorruptible body of Bernadette encased in a glass coffin. We were all speechless and in awe. She is so beautiful -- beauty that comes from the lifeless body yet so tender that still speaks love. Gradually, I could feel something deep within me. What were those feelings? Indescribable. We arrived in time for the Holy Mass. There were only a handful of people inside and a group of pilgrims from Africa came in just before the Holy Mass started. I don't know what we felt, but when it was time to greet each other "peace be with you", we were all crying. The other pilgrims were just so wonderful and we hugged and greeted each other. After the Holy Mass, Mamou took us to the garden where Bernadette used to walk around.  This is Our Lady of the Waters, a statue which has its place at the back of the convent, hidden behind hedgerow. Bernadette would often steal herself some peace here, away from what was often an extremely difficult life in the convent. Sancerre and an Enchanted Castle  St Joseph's chapel, behind us, where Bernadette rested till 1925 is the perfect place to hide away and say your Rosary. It was here that many early visitors to her burial site were said to have experienced miraculous cures through the intercession of Bernadette. After a heavenly lunch at the cafeteria, we visited the Espace's Museum dedicated to the life of Bernadette. Some of the items on display are the actual chair where she died and the clothes that she wore to the Convent.  Our lunch at Espace started with a Salad Nicoise and freshly baked baguette…..  …. followed by chicken and pork roast with mushroom gravy and boiled veggies…..  ….and for desserts -- brie and camembert fromages, yogurt, nougat (Nevers is famous for this), and the moistest chocolate brownies I ever had. I am not a fan of chocolate cakes and brownies, but I swear, the brownies they served us at Espace were the best.  The actual chair in which Bernadette Subirous died  Entrance to the Espace's Museum -- the likeness of Bernadette welcomes visitors. Those eyes -- it's all in her eyes. Sancerre and an Enchanted Castle  We returned to La Tuilerie in the afternoon and after a short rest, Edouard took us for another drive and on to Sancerre in the Loire Valley we went. Sancerre itself is perhaps the model town of rural France : scenic, historic, and certain to make a lasting impression. It is famous for its vineyards and the town center was built ascending up a considerably steep hill that overlooks much of the surrounding area -- lush valleys, acres and acres of fertile vineyards and farmlands. I was also charmed by the streets, the shutters, and the signages especially the pig atop the charcuterie.  The vineyards of Sancerre in the background  The Loire River and the Bordeaux region in the background (as seen from the main square in the town center of Sancerre).  Sancerre's town center. L'Esplanade restaurant in the left, Salon de The (Tea Saloon) in the right.  Medieval churches add to the charm of Sancerre Then on our way back to La Tuilerie, we visited the Chateau de la Verrerie in Oizon. Huge trees lined the approach as we drove in next to the lake. We learned that the castle's origins date back to the 14th century. It is a breathtakingly lovely castle nestled alongside a romantic lake and surrounded by a large forest and a well-tended garden. Set against a backdrop of oak forest, La Verrerie has a fairy-tale quality. A stone chapel greets the visitor at the entrance and faded frescoes of the apostles adorn the walls of the exterior hallways. There is also a little restaurant in a half-timbered cottage on the chateau grounds called La Maison d'Helene.  The main open area leading to the entrance of the castle  The exterior of Chateau de la Verrerie. The castle is now a giant 600 years old B&B and is being managed by a private company.  This half-timbered cottage converted into a restaurant called La Maison d'Helene  A man-made lake adds magic to an already magical castle  A chapel with a "witches hat" spire is the first structure that you will see in the property  What can I say? The chateau and the property surrounding will mesmerize you.  It's tempting when you plan your first big trip to Europe, to do everything to fit every single highlight into a 23-day tour around the planet's most diverse continent. Of course, you want to eat pasta in Rome, stand on top of the Eiffel Tower, cruise the lagoon in Venice, yodel in the Austrian hills, and so on. Yet, you can't do it all. Europe is an incredibly diverse continent full of bucket-list and postcard locations. Let me now focus on my travel to France and impressions of the places I visited. First time to ride an A380We met up at NAIA T2 three hours before our departure and had a breeze checking-in our luggage. It helped that we already checked-in on-line 2 nights before. After more than 3 hours, we reached Kuala Lumpur where our connecting flight was. We only had an hour-and-a-half of lay over and after a quick trip to the comfort room, we hurried to the boarding area. And when it was time to board the aircraft, we were instructed to go to the second level while the other passengers were guided to the lower level. Upstairs we saw two co-passengers who looked confused but decided to just walk through the gates and after a few steps, there was our ride. Oh my, I forgot that our seats were located on the second floor of the aircraft. What an aircraft it was -- the Airbus A380! So huge we wondered how could it lift off the ground. We laughed all the way to our seats and decided to enjoy our ride on an A380. Bonjour Paris!After a 16-hour flight from KL, we reached Charles-de-Gaulle International Airport. None of us had slept much on the flight. Maybe it was the excitement, the adrenaline, whatever! Since the aircraft sits 500+ passengers, it took awhile before the luggages were loaded to the conveyor. After nearly an hour of waiting, my companions already had their luggages but mine was nowhere in sight. I began to worry. An airport crew accompanied me to a booth where I learned that my luggage had been left in KL, and that it would be brought in the next day. The OIC asked me why it took me sometime before I approached them when they had made the announcement several times already. I looked the guy straight in the eyes and said, "that announcement was in French". First Impressions of ParisThe trip from CDG Airport to the city of Paris is pretty underwhelming. As we made our way through the outskirts of the city, there was not much to see. There were vacant lots and rundown buildings along the highway. I would be lying if I didn't say that I was a little concerned. But it's amazing how things can change in a blink of an eye. The famous landmarks of Paris began to appear in the distance. The Eiffel Tower stood as welcoming beacon and my concerns eased a bit.  My first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower -- while we were driving along Avenue Les Invalides After making several quick turns, in a snap, I felt the embrace of Paris -- the city became alive to me. Standing tall in front of us was the Arc de Triomphe (Arch of Triumph). My jaw dropped and my heart raced and we were screaming inside the car to the delight of our host, Edouard Macnab (our PH Finance Director, now VP Finance North America). We were in Paris, one of the most celebrated cities in the entire world, and before us stood one of the world's grandest monuments. And everything else changed as well. It was still early in the morning on a Sunday and the streets were still quiet -- elderly men walking in the side streets with baguettes under their arms, tourists having an "early" morning walk along the river banks. Sigh….sigh….sigh. Beautiful buildings showing off their gorgeous architecture lined each street. The rush of awe and excitement I felt is hard to capture with words. Deep in my heart, I knew, I was experiencing something special and this first taste developed into a love for the city. 
 The quiet streets of Paris on a Sunday morning After a quick view of the Arc de Triomphe, Edouard took us near the Eiffel Tower and then, we drove through the Champs-Elysees and straight to the 7th Arrondissement. We stopped in front of a building called the Ecole Militaire (Military School) and adjacent to it is a pro called the Champ de Mars, the open area offers a magnificent, uninterrupted view of the Eiffel Tower.  The Eiffel Tower as seen from the Champ de Mars (in front of Ecole Militaire)  VG, Knoll, and Liweng with Edouard  With the best PH Finance FD, Edouard Macnab, in his hometown of Paris
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May 2020
Lea DalawisA corporate employee by profession, a home cook, an avid foodie, an obsessive cooking books collector, a wanna-be-food photographer, a budding Writer, a DIY fan, and a Traveller. Categories |
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